Override's 55W rule means your drivetrain can use up to 55 watts of motor power total. With three V5 motor types and three cartridge colors, you have real choices to make. This guide walks through the two main options and helps you pick the one that fits your team.
🏁 Override 2026-27 specific⚙ Build decision — commit before kickoff📚 Middle school accessible
What's the rule again? Override caps your drivetrain motor power at 55 watts total. This was confirmed in the Override game reveal video on April 24, 2026. The exact PTO and exception rules will be confirmed when the manual drops Monday April 27. This guide assumes the basic 55W cap applies as stated.
Why This Decision Matters
You can't just "use a lot of motors" on your drivetrain anymore. The 55W rule means you have to budget your motor power like a household budget — if you spend more on the drive, you have less for everything else.
You also can't just pick the most powerful motor and go fast. The motors come in different types (11W full-size and 5.5W half-size) and the 11W has different gear cartridges (red, green, blue) that change how the motor behaves. Pick wrong and you can end up with a robot that's too slow, too twitchy, or wastes power on parts that don't help.
Real-world parallel: imagine you have $55 to spend on a road trip. You can buy a full tank of gas in a small efficient car ($44, gets you there comfortably with $11 left over for snacks), or you can buy a half tank in a fast car plus a tiny scooter to push when you run out ($55, but the scooter doesn't actually help much past walking pace). The choice is the same engineering question we face here.
The Two Main Options Most Teams Pick Between
Almost every Override team running a tank-style drive will pick one of these two configurations:
Option A — All Blue
4 × 11W with blue cartridges
Total Power
44 W
Power Headroom
11 W spare
Four full-size motors, fast cartridges, no half-motors on the drive. Simpler to build. Leaves 11W of motor power for other mechanisms (arm, intake, etc.).
Option B — Green Plus Halves
4 × 11W green + 2 × 5.5W
Total Power
55 W
Power Headroom
0 W spare
Four full-size motors with mid-speed cartridges, plus two half-size helpers. Maxes out the 55W cap. Six motors total on the drive. More complex to build.
Both are legal. Both can win. The right answer depends on your team's build skill, your match strategy, and what mechanisms you want to put on the rest of the robot.
What This Guide Covers
Motor Basics — the parts you're working with: 11W vs 5.5W motors, red vs green vs blue cartridges, what each one does
The Two Configs — full breakdown of Option A and Option B side by side
The Math — speeds, torques, and what gearing gets you to a target wheel speed
Choose For Your Team — the questions to ask yourself before committing
Build & Wire — port assignments, EZ-Template configuration, and the gear setup
Common Mistakes — the five ways teams get this wrong, and how to avoid them
STEM & Notebook — what concepts this teaches, plus interview lines and a quiz
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// Section 02
Motor and Cartridge Basics ⚙
Before you choose between Option A and B, you need to understand the parts. Two motor types, three cartridge colors, and one fixed-speed motor with no swappable parts.
What Is a Watt, Really?
A watt is a unit of power — how much work a motor can do per second. More watts means the motor can either spin faster, push harder, or both. A 100W lightbulb uses 100 watts to make light. A V5 11W motor uses up to 11 watts to spin a robot wheel.
Every motor in your robot pulls power from the V5 battery. Override caps the drivetrain at 55 watts total — meaning if you add up the wattage of every motor on the drivetrain, the sum must be 55 or less.
The Two Motor Types
Motor
Power
Peak Torque
Cartridges?
Cost-ish
V5 Smart Motor (11W)
11 watts
2.1 Nm
Yes — red, green, or blue swappable
~$50
V5 Smart Motor (5.5W) — the "half motor"
5.5 watts
0.5 Nm
No — fixed at 200 RPM internally
~$30
The 11W motor is the standard. It's what most teams default to and what most VRC mechanism guides assume. The 5.5W is a smaller, less powerful motor — it has roughly half the wattage and a quarter of the peak torque of the 11W. It also runs at a fixed speed (200 RPM at the motor shaft) and you cannot change that with a cartridge swap.
The fixed-RPM thing is a big deal. The 5.5W motor cannot accept the swappable cartridges. It's permanently a 200 RPM motor — the same speed as a green-cartridge 11W. This is the central engineering constraint of Option B: when you mix 11W and 5.5W on the same drivetrain, the 5.5W's speed sets the rules. You either use green cartridges in the 11W's to match the 5.5W natively, or you fight the speed mismatch with external gearing.
The Three Cartridges (11W Only)
The 11W motor accepts three swappable gear cartridges. Each cartridge changes the motor's output speed and torque inside the motor case — the motor case itself doesn't change, just the gears inside.
Cartridge
Output Speed
Torque Multiplier
Best For
Red — 100 RPM (36:1)
100 RPM
Highest torque
Lifts, arms, climbing — mechanisms that need to push hard but slowly. Almost never on a drivetrain.
Green — 200 RPM (18:1)
200 RPM
Balanced
Older drivetrains. Today, used when you need to match 5.5W half-motor speed exactly. Also good for arms.
Blue — 600 RPM (6:1)
600 RPM
Lowest torque
Modern fast drivetrains. Also intake rollers, flywheels — anything that needs to spin fast.
Why "Just Use Blue Everywhere" Doesn't Work
You might be wondering: if blue is the fastest, why not just use blue cartridges on every drivetrain motor and call it a day?
This actually is a good answer for Option A. Four blue motors work great for a drivetrain. The problem comes if you want to add the 5.5W half-motors to get to the 55W cap. The half-motors can't accept blue cartridges — they're stuck at 200 RPM. So a blue 11W spinning at 600 RPM and a 5.5W stuck at 200 RPM are spinning at totally different speeds. To make them work together on the same wheel, you have to gear them differently — and that gets complicated.
Concrete example: imagine a relay race where your fastest runner can sprint at 12 mph and your slowest runner walks at 4 mph. If you want them to hand off the baton smoothly, you can't just have the fast runner sprint — the slow runner won't catch up. You either ask the fast runner to slow down (gear blue motors down with external gears), or you ask the slow runner to speed up (gear 5.5W motors up). Either way, you lose some of what each runner does best. Pick wrong, and your fast runner is just doing all the work while the slow runner barely contributes.
This is why Option B uses green cartridges in the 11W motors, not blue. Green and 5.5W both spin at 200 RPM — they're already matched. No fighting between motors. All six contribute power evenly.
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// Section 03
The Two Configurations 📍
Side-by-side comparison of Option A (all blue) and Option B (green plus halves). Pros, cons, and what each builds toward.
Option A — All Blue Drive
4 × 11W with blue cartridges
Four full-size motors at the four drive wheels. Each motor uses the blue 600 RPM cartridge. External gear reduction brings wheel speed down to a usable target.
PROS
Simpler build — only four motors on the drive instead of six
Faster top speed achievable with right gearing
Leaves 11W of power free for arm, intake, or PTO mechanisms
Standard layout — lots of online build references
Easier to wire and route — fewer cables
Easier for new builders to assemble correctly
CONS
Only 44W of drive power — you give up 11W of available headroom
Lower torque per wheel — can struggle in defensive pushing matches
Loses cross-field accelerations to teams running 55W
Option B — Green Plus Halves
4 × 11W green + 2 × 5.5W half motors
Four full-size motors at the four drive wheels with green cartridges, plus two half-motors providing additional drive boost. All six motors spin at 200 RPM internally — no speed mismatch.
PROS
Maxes out the 55W cap — you spend every legal watt on drive
More total drive power — better for pushing matches
Better acceleration than 4-blue at the same wheel speed
All six motors at matched 200 RPM — clean engineering
Half motors are cheaper than full motors — budget-friendly upgrade path
CONS
More complex build — two extra motors to mount, wire, and integrate
Half motors take chassis space — can crowd other mechanisms
Two extra motor ports used — less flexibility for arm or intake design
Half motors are weaker per unit — less margin before stall during contact
Harder for new builders to assemble correctly
What Each Config Builds Toward
The choice isn't just "which is better" — it's about what kind of robot you're building.
Option A teams tend to build robots where the drivetrain is solid-but-not-special, and the differentiating feature is the manipulator: a precise gripper, a fast intake, a tall lift. The drive does its job; the mechanism wins matches.
Option B teams tend to build robots that compete on the drivetrain itself. They use the extra 11W of drive power for defensive pushing, fast cross-field traverse, or aggressive zone control. The drive itself is part of the strategy.
Neither approach is wrong. The wrong move is to commit to Option B without the building skill or motor inventory to actually pull it off cleanly — or to commit to Option A and then complain that you're losing pushing matches.
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// Section 04
The Math 📊
Speeds and torques in plain numbers. No equations, just "here's what each gearing gets you on a 3.25-inch wheel."
Drivetrain Speed — Option A (All Blue, 3.25″ Wheels)
With blue 600 RPM motors, the wheel spins at 600 RPM if you connect the motor directly to the wheel (a 1:1 gear ratio). That's way too fast — about 8.5 ft/sec. The robot would be uncontrollable. So teams add external gearing to slow the wheel down.
External Gear Ratio
Wheel RPM
Wheel Speed
Real-World Feel
1:1 (direct)
600 RPM
~8.5 ft/sec
Out of control. Don't do this.
36:60 (5:3 reduction)
360 RPM
~5.1 ft/sec
Fast, predictable. Good for skilled drivers.
36:48 (4:3 reduction)
450 RPM
~6.4 ft/sec
Very fast. Hard to control without practice.
48:60 (5:4 reduction)
480 RPM
~6.8 ft/sec
Very fast. Skilled drivers only.
The most common Option A target is around 5 ft/sec — achievable with a 36:60 gear pair. That's the sweet spot between "fast enough to win cross-field races" and "slow enough to drive precisely."
Drivetrain Speed — Option B (Green + Halves, 3.25″ Wheels)
With all motors spinning at 200 RPM, the wheel spins at 200 RPM if you connect direct (1:1). That's only ~2.8 ft/sec — too slow for modern V5RC. So teams add external gearing to speed up the wheel from the motor — opposite direction from Option A.
External Gear Ratio
Wheel RPM
Wheel Speed
Real-World Feel
1:1 (direct)
200 RPM
~2.8 ft/sec
Too slow for competition.
36:48 (4:3 step-up)
267 RPM
~3.8 ft/sec
Slow but very pushy. Good for new drivers.
36:60 (5:3 step-up)
333 RPM
~4.7 ft/sec
Standard Option B target. Balanced.
36:84 (7:3 step-up)
467 RPM
~6.6 ft/sec
Very fast for Option B. Less pushing power.
The most common Option B target is around 4.7 ft/sec — achievable with a 36:60 gear pair (same gear pair as Option A but used in step-up direction instead of reduction).
Torque — Why Option B Wins on Pushing
At similar wheel speeds, Option B has more total torque available because you're using more total motor power. Plain numbers:
Option A at 5.1 ft/sec: 4 motors × 11W = 44W of drive power available. Plenty for pushing your own weight class but loses arm-wrestling matches against 55W teams.
Option B at 4.7 ft/sec: 4 motors × 11W + 2 motors × 5.5W = 55W of drive power. Wins pushing matches against same-weight 44W bots. Especially important during defensive plays or zone control.
The catch: that extra 11W from the half motors is the smallest portion of the drive. If you lose one half-motor to damage during a match, you're effectively running a 49.5W drive — still legal, still better than Option A, but not dramatically so. The reliability tradeoff matters.
Acceleration — The Real Difference Drivers Notice
Top speed isn't everything in V5RC. Most matches are decided by how fast you go from stopped to your top speed — acceleration. Both options can hit similar top speeds, but Option B accelerates faster from a stop because more total motor power is available to overcome the robot's inertia.
Concrete example: imagine pushing a heavy shopping cart. One person can get it rolling, but it takes a few steps. Two people pushing together get it rolling in a single step — even though both setups eventually walk at the same pace. That's what the extra 11W in Option B feels like during driver control: you're always one motor-power tier above the 4-motor team trying to start moving at the same time.
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// Section 05
Choose For Your Team 🧐
Five questions to ask before committing. The right answer depends on who's building, who's driving, and what mechanisms you want to put on the rest of the robot.
Question 1: How Many Motor Ports Do You Need For Mechanisms?
The V5 brain has 8 motor ports (sometimes 11W motors are referred to as "ports," but technically you can have up to 8 11W motors total). After your drive eats up its allocation, what's left for the rest of the robot?
If your robot needs…
Motor ports needed
Recommendation
Just an arm and intake (basic Override Hero Bot)
2 mechanism motors
Either option works. 8 - 4 = 4 spare for A; 8 - 6 = 2 spare for B.
Arm + intake + accumulator + PTO climb
4+ mechanism motors
Option A — you need the spare ports.
Single mechanism (just a roller-changer arm)
1 mechanism motor
Either. Lean Option B if you want pushing power.
If your robot is mechanism-heavy — multiple lifts, intakes, indexers — Option A is almost always right. You can't afford to spend two extra ports on the drive when you need them for game-element manipulation.
Question 2: How Experienced Are Your Builders?
Mounting six motors on a drivetrain is harder than mounting four. The half-motors need their own brackets, their own gear-pair connections to the drive shafts, and they need to be wired and routed without crossing other components. New builders often struggle with this.
First-year builders: Option A. Get the drive working with four motors, then upgrade later if needed.
Returning builders with one season of experience: Either. If your team has built a 6-motor Push Back drive before, Option B is familiar territory.
Experienced builders ready for Phase B refinement: Either, with thought given to specific match strategy.
Question 3: How Skilled Are Your Drivers?
A drivetrain that's too fast for your driver costs matches. New drivers tend to over-correct, run into walls, and lose game elements during sharp turns. A faster drive amplifies all of these mistakes.
New drivers (first month at the controller): target 3.5–4 ft/sec. Either Option B at 36:48 step-up, or Option A at a slower-than-typical reduction.
Practiced drivers (most of last season): target 4.5–5 ft/sec. Both options support this range.
Skilled drivers (regional or state competitor): target 5+ ft/sec. Option A pulls ahead because blue motors can push above where Option B's gearing tops out.
Question 4: What's Your Match Strategy?
Override scoring rewards getting elements into goals quickly and efficiently. The two configs favor slightly different match strategies:
Score-and-flee strategy — pick up an element, drive to the goal, score, return, repeat. Pure cycle speed matters most. Option A wins — the higher achievable top speed cuts cycle times.
Defensive control strategy — block opponents from goals, control field zones, push them out of scoring positions. Pushing power matters most. Option B wins — the extra 11W of drive power means you push harder during contact.
Mixed strategy — what most teams actually do. Either option works; pick based on Questions 1, 2, and 3.
Question 5: How Many Robots Are You Building?
If you're a single team building one robot, this is just "pick the right answer." If you're a program building multiple teams' robots from a shared parts pool — like Spartan's six-team program — consistency matters more than perfection. Pick the option you can actually build the same way on every robot. Different drives across teams means programming and tuning are different across teams, which means cross-team learning gets harder.
Spartan's Phase A V1 recommendation: Option A (4 × 11W blue) for all six teams' V1 Hero Bot. Reasons: simpler build for rookies who are doing this for the first time, leaves motor headroom for the roller-changing arm + sensor mounts, faster cycle times match Override's expected scoring pattern, all six teams have identical drives so cross-team programming carries over. Phase B and C teams can experiment with Option B once V1 is working.
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// Section 06
Build & Wire It 🔧
Port assignments, gear setup, and EZ-Template configuration for both options.
Option A — All Blue Drive
Port Assignment (V5 Brain)
Port
Motor
Cartridge
Reversed?
1
Left Front
Blue
Yes (reversed)
2
Left Back
Blue
Yes (reversed)
3
Right Front
Blue
No
4
Right Back
Blue
No
10
IMU (Inertial Sensor)
N/A
For turning accuracy
5–8
Available for arm, intake, etc.
—
4 ports free
Gearing
External gear pair on each drive shaft: 36-tooth driving gear (on motor shaft) meshing with 60-tooth driven gear (on wheel shaft). This is a 5:3 reduction, slowing 600 motor RPM down to 360 wheel RPM — about 5.1 ft/sec on 3.25″ omni wheels.
EZ-Template robot-config.cpp
// 4-Motor Blue Drive @ 5:3 reduction, 3.25" omni wheelsez::Drive chassis(
// Left motors (negative = reversed)
{-1, -2},
// Right motors (positive = forward)
{3, 4},
// IMU port10,
// Wheel diameter (inches), gear ratio (driven/driving)// 60-tooth wheel gear / 36-tooth motor gear = 1.6673.25, (60.0/36.0)
);
Option B — Green Plus Halves Drive
Port Assignment (V5 Brain)
Port
Motor
Cartridge
Reversed?
1
Left Front (11W)
Green
Yes (reversed)
2
Left Back (11W)
Green
Yes (reversed)
3
Right Front (11W)
Green
No
4
Right Back (11W)
Green
No
5
Left Boost (5.5W)
N/A — fixed 200 RPM
Yes (reversed)
6
Right Boost (5.5W)
N/A — fixed 200 RPM
No
10
IMU
N/A
For turning accuracy
7–8
Available for mechanisms
—
2 ports free
Gearing
External gear pair on each drive shaft: 36-tooth driving gear (on motor shaft) meshing with 60-tooth driven gear (on wheel shaft) — used in step-up direction. This is a 5:3 step-up, speeding 200 motor RPM up to 333 wheel RPM — about 4.7 ft/sec on 3.25″ omni wheels.
Both half motors connect to the drive system at any convenient point — usually a chain link from the half-motor shaft to one of the wheel shafts on each side. The chain transfers the half-motor's torque into the same drive train as the full-size motors.
EZ-Template robot-config.cpp
// 4-Motor Green + 2-Half Drive @ 5:3 step-up, 3.25" omni wheelsez::Drive chassis(
// Left motors: 2 full-size + 1 half (all reversed)
{-1, -2, -5},
// Right motors: 2 full-size + 1 half
{3, 4, 6},
// IMU port10,
// Wheel diameter, gear ratio (60/36 still since half motors// also use 36:60 step-up to match wheel speed)3.25, (60.0/36.0)
);
Important: EZ-Template treats all motors in the configuration as equal. The library doesn't know that a 5.5W has less torque than an 11W. This is fine for normal operation but means that if you tune your PID constants for a specific torque profile and a half-motor breaks during a match, the PID will be slightly off. Test with all six motors and with one half-motor disabled to confirm the robot still drives correctly under either condition.
Common Build Pattern: 36:60 Universal Gear Pair
Notice that both Option A and Option B use a 36:60 gear pair — just used in opposite directions. Option A reduces (motor → gear-down → wheel) and Option B steps up (motor → gear-up → wheel).
This is convenient: your team only needs to stock one type of gear pair. If you ever switch options later in the season, you reuse the same hardware.
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// Section 07
Common Mistakes & Fixes ⚠
Five ways teams get this wrong, and what to do instead.
Mixing Blue and Halves
Team picks 4 blue 11W + 2 half motors, hoping for "the best of both." The blue motors spin at 600 RPM internally, the half motors are stuck at 200 RPM. To make them work together, you have to gear the half motors way up (3:1 step-up) — which throws away most of the half-motor's torque.
Fix: if you're going to use half motors on the drive, switch the 11W motors to green cartridges so all motors run at 200 RPM natively. Or skip the half motors entirely and run pure Option A. Don't mix.
Going Too Fast for Driver Skill
Team picks Option A with 36:48 reduction (6.4 ft/sec target), expecting it to be a competitive advantage. New driver can't handle the speed — runs into walls during driver control, loses game elements during sharp turns. Lower placement than slower 4-blue teams with 5.1 ft/sec drives.
Fix: match drive speed to driver experience, not to spec sheets. New drivers: target 3.5–4.5 ft/sec. Practiced drivers: 4.5–5 ft/sec. Champions: 5+. Speed without skill is a handicap.
Using the Wrong Cartridge for the Strategy
Team commits to Option A "because blue is fastest," then discovers their match strategy is defensive zone control where pushing matters more than top speed. The 4-blue drive can't out-push a 4-green-plus-halves opponent during contact. Match outcomes drop.
Fix: pick the option that matches your strategy, not the option that sounds coolest. If you're a defensive-style team, Option B with its full 55W and stronger pushing is genuinely better. Choose deliberately.
Not Reserving Motor Ports
Team commits to Option B (using 6 of 8 motor ports for drive), then realizes they need three motors for the arm + intake + accumulator they planned. Out of ports. Has to redesign the whole robot mid-season.
Fix: count your motor ports before picking the drivetrain. Sketch out every mechanism on the robot and assign a motor to each one. If you're tight on ports, Option A (4 ports for drive, 4 free) gives you flexibility. Option B (6 ports for drive, 2 free) commits you to a leaner mechanism design.
Over-Tightening the Half Motor Wiring
Team mounts half motors on Option B, runs all the wiring, then realizes during competition that the half motor wires are getting pinched whenever the chassis flexes. Half motor cuts out mid-match.
Fix: half motors have small connectors that are easy to pinch. Plan service loops in your wire routing. Don't use zip ties tightly across motor wires. Test the wiring under both static and dynamic conditions before competition. The half-motor reliability problem is the #1 reason teams revert to Option A after committing to Option B.
Tuning Sequence at the Bench
Bare-chassis push test. With no game elements on the field, push the robot from a stop. Does it move smoothly? Does it accelerate evenly on both sides? If one side feels stronger, find and fix the friction problem.
Loaded push test. Add a typical game element load (cone tower for Override). Re-test push and acceleration. Compare to bare chassis — how much did the loaded test slow down?
Cycle time test. Drive a 24-foot path forward and back. Record total time. Repeat 3 times. Are times consistent? Is the average reasonable?
Defense test. Have a teammate try to push your robot from the side. Does it stay stable? Does it tip? Does the drivetrain hold position under contact?
Endurance test. Drive 30 minutes of mixed motion (forwards, backwards, turns). Check motor temperatures every 5 minutes — warning lights mean you're overworking a motor. Hot motors cause inconsistent performance over a long match.
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// Section 08
STEM & Notebook 📚
What this teaches, what to write in your notebook, and how to talk about it with judges.
STEM Highlight — Power Budgets and Engineering Constraints
⚙ STEM Highlight
The Override 55W rule is an example of an engineering constraint. Constraints are limits the rules give you that you have to work within. In this case, the rule tells you exactly how much motor power your drivetrain can use — 55 watts and not one more.
Engineers solve constraint problems by budgeting. Just like a household budget where you have a fixed amount of money for groceries and rent and savings, an engineering power budget gives you a fixed number of watts for each part of your robot. You can spend more on one thing only if you spend less on another.
Real engineers face this all the time. Spacecraft have power budgets — the engineers decide how many watts go to instruments versus heaters versus communication. Phones have battery budgets — designers decide how much juice goes to the screen versus the processor. Race cars have weight budgets — the design team decides where to put every gram. Working under a constraint forces you to think about what really matters — which is how good engineering happens.
Interview Talking Points
How we picked our drivetrain: "Override has a 55-watt cap on drivetrain power. We had to choose between four blue motors (44 watts, simpler) or four green motors plus two half-motors (55 watts at the cap). We picked four blue because we wanted the extra motor ports for our arm and intake. The simpler drive also lets new builders get it working faster, and we get most of the speed we need without the extra complexity."
The cartridge color decision: "The 11-watt motors come with three cartridge colors that change the motor's speed and torque inside the case. Blue is fast, green is balanced, red is high torque. We use blue for our drivetrain because we want speed. We use red on our arm because we want lifting torque. The cartridge choice is a quick way to tune the same motor for different jobs."
Why not the half-motors: "The 5.5-watt half-motors have a fixed speed of 200 RPM and can't accept the swappable cartridges. To use them on the drive, we'd have to switch our 11-watts to green cartridges so all six motors match in speed. We chose Option A because we wanted the higher top speed of blue, the simpler four-motor build, and the spare motor ports for other mechanisms."
Check for Understanding
Your team is building an Override robot. You need a fast cycle-time strategy where you score elements and return as quickly as possible. Your team has experience with 6-motor builds. Which configuration makes more sense?
Option A — 4 blue motors. Higher top speed achievable, simpler build, spare motor ports for mechanisms.
Option B — 4 green plus 2 halves. Maxes out the cap so it's always better.
Mix blue and halves — gets the speed of blue and the power of halves combined.
Use red cartridges — highest torque means fastest acceleration.
Why: Cycle-time strategy rewards top speed, which Option A delivers better. Mixing blue and halves wastes the half-motor power because of the speed mismatch — you have to gear the halves up so much that they barely contribute. Red cartridges are too slow for a drivetrain. Maxing the cap (Option B) is great for pushing strategies but doesn't inherently win on cycle-speed games.
What to Put in Your Engineering Notebook
The power budget table. List every motor on the robot, what wattage each draws, what cartridge each uses, and where the total drivetrain wattage lands. This is the single most useful page judges want to see in a notebook.
The decision matrix. Compare Option A vs Option B against your specific team's situation (Questions 1–5 from the previous section). Show the answers, the score, and which option won.
The gear ratio calculation. Show the math: motor RPM × (driving teeth / driven teeth) = wheel RPM. Then wheel RPM × wheel circumference = wheel speed. This proves you understand how the gearing works.
Test data. Record bench-test cycle times, push tests, and endurance tests. Numbers carry weight with judges.
What you'd change next time. Honest reflection on whether the choice was right. Did your strategy turn out the way you predicted? If not, what does that suggest for Phase B?